home Cranberry House
Cranberry House Electrical Plan
this is 10 april 2007 version
obsolete 20 march 2006 version
Scroll down to see complete electrical plan.
Click diagrams to enlarge them for print out.
Outside

Outlets
All mounted in waterproof boxes, with lockable caps, always powered on (no switch control), all wired to the same separate circuit breaker, all GFI protected
(from front to back)
- outlet on deck side of handrail pillar at front of deck (south end of broad steps)
- outlet on deck side of ramp post at front of deck (north end of broad steps)
- 6 outlets, two each (in double box) on backs of 3 southernmost pillars holding up front porch roof
- outlet on deck side of remaining (northernmost) pillar holding up front porch roof
- fan outlet at center of front porch ceiling; fan to be unplugged & moved inside in winter
- outlet at center of front wall of building, for access from deck
- outlet on wooden basement wall at rear of building
Electric Eye
Mounted some place where it "sees" the night sky and is not affected by exterior lights; suitable for fluorescent, incandescent, or other type bulbs; supplies power to all exterior lights (security lights, parking lot light, and deck lights); can be overridden by switch B2 in entry hall
Security Lights {and what switch controls them}
All fixtures supplied by us, installed by electrician; all controlled dusk-to-dawn by electric eye (above) if left on (as intended); all use energy efficient screw-in compact fluorescent bulbs
Note: The 3 wall fixtures and parking lot light (below) are to be mounted on face of waterproof electric box which itself is mounted flush on wall (with small hole in wall behind box for wire feed.)
- hanging fixture under front porch roof, above serving window {switch G3 in kitchen by exterior door}
- hanging fixture under side porch roof, above main entry door {switch A2 in entry hall}
- wall fixture to right of lower fire escape door {switch E1 in museum by door}
- wall fixture to left of upper fire escape door {switch K1 in cultural center by door}
- wall fixture high on rear wall, accessible from upper window {switch P3 in basement by door}
Parking Lot Light {controlled by switch B1 in entry hall}
Fixture supplied by us, installed by electrician; controlled dusk-to-dawn by electric eye (above) if left on; intended to be dual floodlight fixture with screw-in bulbs, either incandescent or compact fluorescent
- waterproof wall box for dual floodlight high on north wall, accessible from rearmost upper window
to brightly light parking lot and driveway
Deck Lights {all controlled by switch G4 in kitchen by exterior door}
All fixtures supplied by us, installed by electrician; all controlled dusk-to-dawn by electric eye (above) if left on; all use energy efficient screw-in compact fluorescent bulbs
- lantern fixture at front of deck, south side, mounted on last railing post, just above railing
to
light front of deck and broad steps
- lantern fixture at front of deck, north side, mounted on last ramp post, same height as above
to light front of deck, broad steps, and earthen entry ramp
- hanging fixture under front porch roof, to the north of fan outlet
Switches
None

How exterior lights will illumine the grounds
Ground Floor
The ceiling of large "museum room" will be open; ceiling cables probably have to be metal-sheathed BX. We have not yet decided if museum walls will be covered or left open.
All other rooms will have walls and ceilings completely covered; all cables can be Romex.

Entry Hall
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- LED exit light above entry door (with battery backup), always on
- fire pull on wall, on hinge side of door
- track for track light on ceiling for general hall lighting plus hall exhibits {switch A1 in entry hall}; track to be compatible with "Hampton Bay" 120V type sold by Home Depot, so we can easily buy fixtures
Switches
Position A (just to right of entry door, on doorknob side)
3 switches, from closest to furthest from door:
A1 track light on entry hall ceiling
A2 security light on porch ceiling just outside entry door
A3 (2-way) 2 lights on stair landings, 2 in upper hall (with switch H1 at top of stairs)
Note: This represents a change from the wiring installed in 2006, which is as follows:
A1 security light on porch ceiling just outside door
A2 (2-way) light in entry hall, 2 lights on stair landings, 2 in upper hall
By the way, this in spite of our direction to keep entry & stair lights separate.
Position B (just to left of entry door, on hinge side)
2 switches, from closest to furthest from door:
B1 exterior parking lot floodlight
B2 electric eye override (to force lights on in dim light, or to easily test bulbs)
fire pull (higher than switch, above)
Position C (by handicap lift)
C1 (2-way) light at top of handicap lift shaft (with switch H2 at top of stairs)
Museum
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- 2 telephone jacks, wired to basement utility room; one low on north stub wall (near reception desk), one low on south wall near kitchen
- LED exit light above door to entry hall (with battery backup) (always on)
- LED exit light above fire escape door (with battery backup) (always on)
- fire horn/strobe on south wall per architect
- power failure lights (battery pack) on north wall per architect (always on)
- heavy duty fan hanging box (always powered) for ceiling fan (with pull-chain switch) in center of main room; fan to be supplied and installed by us
- several always-on outlets on the walls near the floor, for vacuum cleaner, floor lamp, etc.
- overhead tracks for track lights around perimeter of room {switch D3}; track to be compatible with "Hampton Bay" 120V type sold by Home Depot, so we can easily buy fixtures
- outlet on ceiling in the center of the room {switch D3}
- general room lights: 6 dual-tube eight-foot instant-on electronic ballast fluorescent fixtures {switches D1 & D2}
- wood-encased fixtures to be bought, factory-made wooden
- fixtures divided into 2 banks, controlled by 2 switches, to allow half or full illumination
- fixtures mounted lengthwise (east/west) along both sides of the large museum room, and crosswise (north/south) in smaller museum back room, as shown:
| west exterior (rear) wall |
--A-- |
--B-- |
| wing wall |
wing wall |
|
|C
| |
|
|D
| |
| wing wall |
|
|
|E
| |
|
|F
| |
| east fire wall |
Switches
Position D (just to side of museum entry door, on doorknob side)
3 switches, from closest to furthest from door:
D1 one half of the overhead lights in the museum (lights B, D, E)
D2 the other half of the overhead lights in the museum (lights A, C, F)
D3 ceiling track lights for exhibits, plus ceiling outlet at center of room
Position E (just to side of fire escape door, on doorknob side)
E1 exterior security light over fire escape door
Kitchen
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- telephone jack on wall for wall phone, wired to basement utility room
- 2 dual-tube eight-foot instant-on electronic ballast fluorescent fixtures on ceiling, one over sink (south wall) and one over short counter and pantry (north wall) {switches F1 & G1}
- porcelain lamp socket on ceiling in serving area by sliding window {switch G2}
- heavy duty fan hanging box (always powered) for ceiling fan (with pull-chain switch) in center of room; fan to be supplied and installed by us
- 220V outlet for stove
- 220V connection for commercial dishwasher
- 110V connection for household dishwasher (due to uncertainty about dishwasher)
- connection for lights/fan of exhaust hood over stove on south wall
- outlet under sink for garbage disposal and/or instant hot water dispenser
- outlet for ice maker
- 2 outlets by serving window area for coffee pot, warming light, etc.
- at least 4 outlets above and along long (sink) countertop for electrical appliances
- at least 2 outlets above and along short (fridge) countertop
- outlet for fridge
- outlet in back of pantry for possible freezer
- outlet on the wall somewhere, near floor, for vacuum cleaner, etc.
Switches
Position F (just to side of museum door into kitchen, on doorknob side)
F1 (2-way) switch for both overhead fluorescent lights (with switch G1 at other kitchen door)
Position G (just to side of exterior door into kitchen, on doorknob side)
4 switches, from closest to furthest from door:
G1 (2-way) switch for both overhead fluorescent lights (with switch F1 at other kitchen door)
G2 interior overhead light above serving window
G3 exterior ceiling security light above serving window
G4 exterior deck lights
Second Floor
The large "multipurpose room" will have all walls completely covered, but ceiling open; wall cables can be Romex, but ceiling cables probably have to be metal-sheathed BX.
All other rooms will have walls and ceilings completely covered; all cables can be Romex.

Multipurpose Room
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- telephone jack on wall for wall phone, wired to basement utility room
- 2 category 5e computer jacks individually wired to basement utility room; one on south wall, one on east fire wall
- 6 legacy hanging lights {dimmer switch I4}; supplied by us
- LED exit light above door to stairway (with battery backup) (always on)
- LED exit light above door to fire escape (with battery backup) (always on)
- fire horn/strobe on south wall per architect
- fire pull by door to fire escape per architect
- power failure lights (battery pack) on north wall per architect (always on)
- 2 heavy duty fan hanging boxes (always powered) for 2 central ceiling fans down center of main room; fans (with pull-chain switch) to be supplied and installed by us
- several always-on outlets on the walls near the floor, for vacuum cleaner, floor lamp, etc.
Note: all outlets on north and west (rear) walls to be double-duplex i.e. 4 plugs per position
- overhead tracks for track lights around perimeter of room plus down the center {switch I3}; track to be compatible with "Hampton Bay" 120V type sold by Home Depot, so we can easily buy fixtures
- always-on projector outlet on ceiling in the center of room
- always-on 20-amp ceiling outlet for stage lighting, 10' from north west corner, (separate breaker)
- general room lights: 6 dual-tube eight-foot instant-on electronic ballast fluorescent fixtures {switches I1 & I2}
- wood-encased fixtures to be bought, factory-made wooden
- lights arranged in two parallel rows
- lights in left and right rows separately controlled by two switches (I1 and I2)
Switches
Position I (in main room, just to side of fire door, on doorknob side)
4 switches, from closest to furthest from door:
I1 row of fluorescent lights closest to fire escape
I2 row of fluorescent lights closest to storage closet
I3 overhead track lights
I4 dimmer switch for 6 hanging legacy lights
Lift Shaft
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- Fluorescent fixture at top of lift shaft {switches H2 and C1}
Stairs and Upper Hallway
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- 4 porcelain lamp sockets, with pull-chains: 1 on wall at each of 2 stairway landings, 2 in hall {switches A3 & H1}
- power failure lights (battery pack) on east wall per architect (always on)
Switches
Position H (in stairway hall, just to side of fire door, on doorknob side)
2 switches, from closest to furthest from door:
H1 (2-way) 4 lights for stairs and upper hall (with switch A3 in entry hall)
H2 (2-way) light at top of handicap lift shaft (with switch C1 in entry hall)
Bathroom
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- fire horn/strobe in bathroom per architect
- dual screw-in bulb light fixture above bathroom mirror and sink {switch M); fixture to be supplied by us
- GFI outlet high on wall nearby sink (always on) for shaver, hair dryer, etc.
- 220V connection for hand drier; drier to be supplied by us
- connection box in ceiling for exhaust fan (switch M)
- no other wall outlets
Switches
Position M (in bathroom, just to side of door, on doorknob side)
M1 light fixture above sink, plus connection to possible exhaust fan
Art Sink Room
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- overhead porcelain lamp socket on ceiling above tub (switch L1)
being off to the side, its light will not shine out into main room too much
- wall outlet (always on) for vacuum cleaner, etc.
Switches
Position L (in tub room, just to side of opening, on same side as for bathroom)
L1 ceiling light over tub
Storage Area
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- overhead fluorescent fixture(s) {switch J1}
- wall outlet (always on) for vacuum cleaner, etc.
Switches
Position J (in storage room, just to side of door, on doorknob side)
J1 ceiling light(s)
Note: this switch is currently on the outside of the storage area; we want it moved inside.
Basement
The large room will have its long side walls bare (cement foundation) and the end walls covered (drywall); wall cables can be Romex (there are none on the cement walls.) The ceiling will be open; ceiling cables probably have to be metal-sheathed BX.
The two smaller rooms are not intended for access by the public. They will be accessed only by historical society employees and volunteers. All exterior walls will be bare cement, and all interior walls covered by drywall. Ceiling will be drywall in the utility room, and open in the archive room. We do not know what type cable should be used for these rooms.

Main Room
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- telephone jack on wall for wall phone, wired to basement utility room
- LED exit light above door (with battery backup) (always on)
- power failure lights (battery pack) on west wall per architect (always on)
- fire horn/strobe on south wall per architect
- fire pull by door (above switches at Position P) per architect
- several ceiling outlets (always on) along sides of room every 6 feet for computer, etc.
these should be on separate circuit breaker
- general room lights: 6 dual-tube eight-foot instant-on electronic ballast fluorescent fixtures {switches P1 & P2}
- lights divided into 2 banks, controlled by 2 switches
- fixtures mounted lengthwise (east/west) along both sides of the basement, and perhaps mounted recessed up into area between floor joists to give more headroom
Switches
Position P (in main basement room, just to south side of double door) 3 switches, from closest to furthest from door:
P1 2/3 of the ceiling fluorescent lights furthest from door
P2 1/3 of the ceiling fluorescent lights closest to door
P3 security light outside basement door
Utility Room
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- category 5e computer 6-jack block with 2 jacks individually wired to second floor
- 220V connection for water heater; heater supplied by us
- 220V 30A connection for fire sprinkler system; system supplied by us
- 2 4-foot fluorescent shop-lights overhead light (switch N1); fixtures supplied by us
- several wall outlets (always on) for tools, etc.
Switches
Position N (in utility room, just to south side of double doors)
N1 ceiling lights
Archival Room
Fixtures {and what switch controls them}
- 220V connection for electric baseboard heater; heater supplied by us
- 2 4-foot fluorescent shop-lights overhead light (switch O1); fixtures supplied by us
- several wall outlets (always on) for tools, etc.
Switches
Position O (in archival room, just to side of door, on doorknob side)
O1 ceiling lights
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